Buying guides · 4 min read
Flooring Compared: Hardwood, Engineered, LVT, Laminate and Tile
Which floor suits which room, and the specs that actually predict how long it lasts.
Most flooring disappointment comes from putting the right material in the wrong room. Moisture, subfloor, and traffic decide what will work far more than appearance does — so it's worth settling those before choosing a finish you like.
In this story
- 1. Solid hardwood: the long game
- 2. Engineered wood: real timber, more stable
- 3. LVT and vinyl plank: the practical all-rounder
- 4. Laminate: hard-wearing but water-shy
- 5. Tile: the only fully wet-safe option
- 6. Let moisture decide first
- 7. Check underfloor heating compatibility explicitly
- 8. Acclimatise, and leave expansion gaps
- 9. The subfloor decides the finish quality
- 10. Compare cost over lifespan, not per square metre
Buying guides
Solid hardwood: the long game
Solid timber can be sanded and refinished several times, so its realistic lifespan is measured in decades. It also moves with humidity and dislikes moisture, which rules it out for bathrooms and makes it risky in basements. Best in living and sleeping areas with stable conditions.
Buying guides
Engineered wood: real timber, more stable
A genuine hardwood wear layer bonded to plywood, so it looks identical underfoot but moves far less with humidity. That stability makes it the usual choice over underfloor heating. What matters is wear-layer thickness — thin layers can't be refinished, which removes the main advantage of wood.
Buying guides
LVT and vinyl plank: the practical all-rounder
Fully waterproof, warm underfoot, and quiet, which is why it dominates kitchens and family spaces. Quality varies enormously and is predicted almost entirely by wear-layer thickness — thicker resists scratching and denting far better. Thickness of the plank itself mostly affects feel, not durability.
Buying guides
Laminate: hard-wearing but water-shy
The photographic surface is very scratch-resistant, often more so than real wood. The weakness is the fibreboard core: standing water reaching a seam causes swelling that cannot be repaired. Water-resistant grades help but don't make it a wet-room floor.
Buying guides
Tile: the only fully wet-safe option
Porcelain and ceramic are the correct answer for bathrooms and anywhere water sits. Cold and hard underfoot, which is why tile pairs so naturally with underfloor heating. Check the slip rating for bathrooms rather than choosing purely on appearance.
Buying guides
Let moisture decide first
Bathrooms and laundries: tile or vinyl. Kitchens: vinyl, tile, or engineered with prompt spill management. Basements and concrete slabs: vinyl or tile, because of moisture rising through the slab. Ruling out by moisture first leaves a much easier choice.
Buying guides
Check underfloor heating compatibility explicitly
Not all floors can go over heating, and those that can often have a maximum surface temperature. Exceeding it voids warranties and can cause gapping or delamination. Confirm the specific product, not the material category, before ordering.
Buying guides
Acclimatise, and leave expansion gaps
Most floors need to sit in the room for days before installation so they reach its humidity. They also need a gap at the perimeter to expand into, hidden by skirting or beading. Buckled floors are nearly always one of these two steps skipped.
Buying guides
The subfloor decides the finish quality
Every imperfection underneath telegraphs through, especially with thinner products like LVT. Levelling compound is unglamorous and it's the difference between a floor that looks installed and one that looks laid. Budget for it rather than discovering it mid-job.
Buying guides
Compare cost over lifespan, not per square metre
A floor that lasts thirty years at twice the price of one lasting ten is cheaper. Factor refinishing potential too: hardwood and thick-wear-layer engineered can be renewed, while laminate and thin LVT must be replaced entirely once worn.
